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March 14, 2009

Kanyakumari: The Land's End Of India


Another interesting journey, majestic hills and plains bordered by colourful sea-shores, coconut trees and paddy fields, elevated patches of red cliffs and undulating valleys- I departed for the southernmost tip of India- the last destination 'Kanyakumari' (or Cape Comorin). It was a cool Sunday morning when I reached at the confluence of the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea. The natural environment was peaceful and really stunning. I hired a guide from the bus stand only and asked him to first take me to a restaurant. While I was having my breakfast, my guide, Tahir, acquainted me with some interesting information about the city's history, various dynasties like the Cholas, Cheras, Pandyas & the Nayaks, attractions, and lifestyle.

We started off with the Gandhi Memorial. The National monument resembles an Orissa temple. Tahir also took me to the Kumari Amman Temple. He told me that it was the place where Devi Kanya- the Virgin Goddess and the incarnation of Goddess Parvati- did penance to marry Lord Siva. It is perhaps the most revered Hindu site in the region. Tahir insisted me to visit the Nagaraja Temple that resembles Chinese architecture of Budha Viharas and is known for a number of idols and images. But I refused as I was left with a little time in Kanyakumari. We together had a few local sea-food items in lunch at a small dhaba and continued our excursion.

I wished to see a few historical places, and Tahir took me to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, the world famous site because of a huge statue of Swami Vivekananda, the great Indian philosopher and social reformist, who is said to have meditated here. The statue is situated about 500 metres in the sea which is easily accessible by boat. An isolated place Dhyana Mandapam is also built here for one to meditate. Apart from that, the 18th century Vattakotta Fort is also a wonderful monument, showcasing the best of Dutch architecture.

I realized that Kanyakumari is a renowned pilgrimage and a romantic destination as well. Couples can be seen enjoying the marvellous sight of Sunrise & Sunset and fishing at the multi-coloured sea shore. I truly liked this short visit to the city of culture, history, arts and economy. I bid good bye to Tahir and got into a bus heading towards Alleppey. On my way to Alleppey, I also had glimpse of the picturesque village of Thottapally, located in the south of the Alleppey district. The lively fishing harbour, serene backwaters and holy shrines together make it a paradise for nature lovers. It was getting dark and I could see the houseboats twinkling in the backwaters. I was very much excited to experience the life on the waters in this green paradise.

Trivandrum: The City With Rich History, Logic And Simple Gratitude

After relaxing on Kovalam Beach, I moved towards Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram)- the capital city of Kerala. My grandfather used to tell me that Trivandrum is a city that showcases the most vibrant and lively culture of Kerala. Fortunately, my visit synchronized with the 'Flavour Food Festival'. I was welcomed by the aroma of typical south Indian and other various delicacies. A number of hotels, restaurants and food chain outlets from across Kerala participate every year in this week long international festival. I booked a room in Sahyadri Ayurvedic Centre and rushed towards the Kanakakunnu Palace grounds to enjoy the festival. It was the first time, I guess, I was witnessing countless food items at a single place. I had enough of my favourite Chinese snacks, sea-food, south Indian specialties and a few north Indian dishes.

Being located on the south west coast of India, the city offers wonderful beach destinations like Varkala Beach, Shanghumugham Beach etc. for absolute relaxation. I started off with Padmanabhaswamy Temple, at the heart of the city. The temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is located inside the East Fort. I would call it a perfect blend of the typical Keralan and the Dravidian styles of art. The innumerable stone carvings, ancient inscriptions and colourful murals (wall paintings) were simply out of the world. I also visited the Methan Mani clock atop the Old Fort Palace, quite close to the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, which is operated by a complex system of pulleys. Being very fond of antiques, I also visited the beautiful Napier Museum. This 19th century Indo-Saracenic museum showcases a wide array of archaeological and historic artifacts, plastic casts, bronze idols, ancient ornaments, a temple chariot and ivory carvings. For me, it was the best attraction of the city. On observing my keen interest in antiques, a guard at the Napier Museum suggested me to visit the Sree Chithra Art Gallery as well.

The gallery is quite famous for its paintings and is located at a close proximity to the museum. I was literally overwhelmed by seeing the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma, Svetlova and Nicholas Roerich and exquisite works from the Rajput, Mughal and Tanjore schools of art in India. The gallery showcases a rarest collection of paintings from China, Japan, Tibet and Bali.

It was a hot afternoon. I enjoyed a diet coke at a small cold drink stall near the museum. While asking about the other main attractions of the city from the stall owner, he suggested me to visit the Science and Technology Museum Complex (popular for items related to science, technology and electronics) and the SMSM Handicraft Emporium behind the Secretariat on YMCA road. I also bought a few hand-knitted and exquisitely designed coir handicrafts from the SMSM Handicrafts Emporium. The emporium was full of wonderful objects including table and floor mats, bell-metal vessels, table lamps, jewel boxes etc. The best thing I realized about Trivandrum was that despite of growing at a fast pace as a modern and hi-tech city, it has retained its heritage, culture and customs.

My last halt in the evening was the Shanghumugham Beach, the best place to catch the play of light and shade. While returning to the Sahyadri Ayurvedic Centre, I picked up a few delicate and small artifacts from the market. I also enjoyed the Sirodhara therapy of Ayurveda in my hotel. The masseurs first laid me down and poured the medicated oil over the forehead slowly. They told me it was a natural and effective process for relaxation. People suffering from mental disorders, psychological imbalances, stress, tension, depression and other negative states of the psyche are also provided with the same treatment but with different medicated oil in different ailments. The treatment was highly refreshing. I was ready to move to my next destination, where I could enjoy the best of traditional Kalarippayattu martial art and Kathakali dance performances.

Leisure Holiday On Kovalam Beach: Unlimited Fun And Entertainment

It was a pleasant morning when I arrived Kovalam- 'the grove of coconut trees'. I had read a lot about Kovalam, its unique culture, arts and the best of Ayurveda. This isolated place, being located at a close proximity to Trivandrum (Kerala's capital; 16 km), draws thousands of tourists in the charm of serene beaches and leisure holidays. I got an accommodation unit in beach facing Surya Samudra Beach Garden Resort. The best part with Kovalam is that you do not need to hire a taxi or auto to visit the major attractions. This small town can easily be explored on foot. Besides, Kovalam is a city which can be visited in any month of the year. It enjoys a pleasant tropical climate.

As I walked towards the beach, I saw people enjoying swimming, kayaking, surfing and skiing. People looking for relaxation were enjoying sun bathing and massages. I visited a few renowned Ayurvedic rejuvenation and yoga-meditation centers as well, but found them costly. Kids were playing on the sea waves with their surfboards and boogie boards under the guidance of experts and lifeguards. The beach has a history of quiet a few drowning cases. Therefore, one can find instructions in various languages pointing out specifically that only the area marked by green flag is safe for tourists. While having some snacks on the beach, I observed a few shops of handicrafts and spices. There are a number of shopping places lined across the beach, which are quite popular for rose wood and teak wood statues. The Samudra Beach, Kovalam Beaches, Hawa Beach and the Light House Beach collectively form a major attraction in Kovalam.


I moved on to explore the cultural aspects, art forms and historic monuments of the city. I first bought a city guide, worth Rs. 10, from a roadside shop and started with Padmanabhaswamy Temple, believed to be one of the 108 Divya Sthalas of Lord Vishnu. In context of architectural beauty, I would also appreciate the East Fort Ganapathy Temple, situated at Pazhavangady, near East Fort. I also offered coconuts to Lord Ganapathy. If I could spend some extra time in Kovalam, I would have certainly visited the Pazhavangadi Bhagavathy Temple and Attukal Hanuman Temple along with a few mosques and churches. I got into a nearby restaurant and had my favourite fish curry and fish fry in lunch.

As I returned to the hotel, I was invited for a special cultural programme in the evening, which was organized for all the guests. Several dancers and artists performed the traditional Kerala art forms like Kathakali and the ethnic martial art 'Kalarippayattu'. These performance raised my spirits. Despite of being a small town, Kovalam was full of vibrant colours, lively art forms and joy.

A Unique Blend Of Tradition And Natural Beauty Of South India

On my last day in the state of Tamil Nadu, I planned for a short visit to Madurai (the Lotus City of India). I moved along the river Vaigai and reached the Temple Town 'Madurai'. I searched for a economy class lodge and had a cup of coffee there. I booked a room to keep my luggage safely and moved on to explore the city. The influence of the Pandya dynasty can be observed on the structural beauty of the city even today. I was amazed to see temples on every cross road of the city.

My first halt was the legendary Meenakshi Temple, one of the largest and most beautiful temple complexes in India. Dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi, the temple is believed to be older than the Madurai city. I also came to know that the temple serves as the centre of attraction on all the festive occasions of the city. Some local people told me that Sivagana Palace (40 km) is a nice attraction near Madurai, but I could not visit that because of shortage of time. However, a priest at the temple told me that the Sivaganga Palace is an excellent example of the Rajputana art. It also houses the temple of Sri Raja Rajeshwari (the family deity of the royal family) and Nadai Kinaru (a miniature swimming pool meant for the womenfolk of the royal family).

While returning to the lodge, I made short visits to Koodal Azhaar Temple (one of the ancient temples of Madurai, dedicated to Lord Vishnu) and Thirumalai Nayak Mahal (a 1523 structure, famous for a light and sound show for the tourist to know about the Nayak dynasty). Although Madurai is a renowned textile centre and is known for hand-woven silks and cottons, bell-metal lamps, bronze images, wood and stone carvings also, but I could not find something interesting and unique to buy.

While planning for some extensive excursions around the city, I decided to visit Periyar. As I stepped in 'God's Own Country'- the state of Kerala, I was welcomed by soothing & dense greens, cascading waterfalls, enchanting backwaters, exotic wildlife and the best of natural beauty. Periyar (170 km from Madurai) was my first destination in Kerala. I was actually overwhelmed by seeing the nature in its purest form. It was quite dark, therefore I decided not to wander in the deep forests. I booked a room in Hotel Lake Palace, which was situated at a close proximity to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. The hotel assured me to provide proper facilities for Jeep Safari and assistance for exploring the dense greens.

I woke up the next morning amidst lush green trees, chirping birds, velvety hills and stunningly beautiful landscapes. It was simply a heaven. This was perhaps the most beautiful destination I had ever been to. My guide, Dara, told me that the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary spreads across 777 sq. km, with hundreds of species of flora and fauna. It was declared a Tiger Reserve in 1978. I spotted a few elephants, sambars, gaurs and wild pigs wandering down the lake side and captured them in my camera. Unfortunately, I could not find any tigers there. The actual beauty of the sanctuary lies in the Periyar Lake, which is considered rich in bio-diversity. It also serves as a home to various amphibians and migratory birds.

The sanctuary closes at 6 pm. While coming out of the sanctuary, I could smell the aroma of spices in the air. It was not dark at 6 pm and I could easily see the sprawling tea, coffee, pepper and cardamom plantations over the hills. As I reached the hotel, I was offered a book on Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, which contained a detailed study on all the 62 species of mammals, 320 species of birds, 45 kinds of reptiles, 7 kinds of amphibians, 38 species of fish and about 350 species of plants found here. Periyar was a wonderland. I would like to spend a few more days there on my next trip.