Cochin and Guruvayur: The Perfect Marriage of Modernity and Age Old Traditions

To enjoyed Monsoon at its best, I managed to board the train to Cochin- the Queen of the Arabian Sea- located between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. Apart from the equatorial climate, the city offers a number of Tea/Coffee and Spice plantations and historical monuments on the south west coast of India. I got a cozy accommodation unit in Hotel Abad Plaza (3 star hotel), just 2 km from the railway station.

I had a sauna bath in the hotel to refresh my senses for exploring Cochin in a well planned manner the next day. I was offered awesome sea-food in dinner along with a few live performances of Kerala's traditional music and dance. While chatting with the manager, I got to know that Cochin is not only called the commercial hub of this thriving state, but also the industrial capital. The manager assisted me with Nishu, who has been guiding tourists in Cochin and the nearby regions for last 7 years.

Our trip started the next morning with the Dutch Palace (Stancher Palace). This Portuguese structure, built in 1557, showcases wonderful murals (wall paintings) in its bed-chambers and other rooms. These murals depict scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranic legends connected with Shiva, Vishnu, Krishna, Kumara and Durga. Meanwhile, Nishu told me that Cochin was ruled by the Dutch, British and the Portuguese but it still retains its cultural identity. I, too, observed a unique mix and match of traditional as well Western architecture and lifestyle in every aspect of Cochin. Nishu also took me to the Bolghatty Palace (on palm fringed Bolghatty Island) and St. Francis Church (built in 1503 by Portugese Franciscan friars; India's oldest European-built church). We had some rice and sambhar (traditional vegetarian south Indian dish) in our lunch at a small roadside shop.

On requesting for some excursions, Nishu took me to Guruvayu- some 100 km from Cochin. On our way to Guruvayur, I saw villagers busy in growing spices, tea, coffee, dry-fruits, rubber, timber etc. Finally, we reached Guruvayur- the Dwarka of south- one of the greatest pilgrimages of Kerala. I received some kind of religious vibes while entering that small town in Thrissur district, and I was right. Nishu told me that Guruvayur is synonymous with its Guruvayurappan Temple, which is dedicated to Balagopalan (Lord Krishna in childhood). Its beautiful paintings, nakkashi and murals depict the life stages and stories of Shri Krishna in an extraordinary way. I also saw a few people making arrangements for marriages in the temple.

Our next halt was the famous Punnathurkotta or Anakotta elephant sanctuary. The best part with the sanctuary is that all the elephants here are the offerings made by the devotees to the temple god. While returning to Cochin, Nishu told me that the Guruvayur residents are very addicted to festivals and celebrations. They organize a huge celebration every month, and the biggest is Thrissur Pooram. This festival is marked with huge processions of caparisoned elephants, and traditional dance performances wearing colorful dresses and giant umbrellas.

On my way to hotel, I spent a few minutes at M.G. Road and Marine Drive road, which are quite famous for shopping. Cochin has business diversions in gold and textile retailing, sea food exports, ship-building, fishing industry and information technology also. I found the city well nurtured in terms of tradition, culture and beauty.

A Mesmerizing Trip on Alleppey Houseboat

A comfortable evening journey by bus brought me to the 'Venice of the east'- Alleppey (Alappuzha), in Kerala. With a mood to explore the entire city on a houseboat, I was booked in a houseboat provided by ATDC (Alleppey Tourism Development Co-operative Society) for one day. That was a huge houseboat ('Kettuvallom'- as people call it locally) and was well equipped with all the modern amenities like proper bedroom, AC, attached washroom, kitchen, tea/coffee maker and lounge area. I was provided with two assistants and a chef. They served me a mouth-watering rice preparation and my favourite fish curry in dinner. I spent a few late hours under the twinkling stars. The assistants told me that Alleppey was amongst the most busy trade centers in India. It was spotted when traders from across the world came here searching for souvenirs and black gold. Later the British established it as a trade port in the late 18th century. Even today, Alleppey is a center for prawn farming and Coir carpet industries.

The next morning, we started off towards the major destinations of the city. It was my first experience of exploring a destination on water. We first sailed towards the 18th century Krishnapuram Palace, which lies about 47 km from the city centre. I walked inside the fort to see the elegant double storeyed structure that displays characteristics of Kerala architecture in its gabled roofs, windows and corridors. It also houses the largest mural painting in Kerala called the Gajendra Moksham, a 14 by 11 feet work of art. I also visited several antique sculptures, paintings and bronzes at the palace. Meanwhile, the chef cooked breakfast for me and offered with a glass of orange juice.

Till the afternoon, we had explored enough of waterways (the huge networks of lagoons, canals, and lakes) along with water lilies and migratory birds. I saw a few local people busy in practicing for the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race, which was scheduled in the next month. I still wonder how the small children are capable of sailing these boats with such a perfection in the region. As the town is established on a narrow land spit between Arabian Sea and Vembanad Lake, these waterways serve as a lifeline to the entire region.

I was also taken to enjoy the splendid natural beauty at the Pathiramanal Island, where I spotted hundreds of the migratory birds. The island, sandwiched between Thaneermukkom and Kumarakom, offers the matchless natural beauty. I also enjoyed the short sightseeing trip to R-Block, its backwaters and the nearby paddy fields. My entire day on a houseboat was simply outstanding. That was an unforgettable holiday amidst the backwaters in Alleppey or the passageways to the beauty.

Kanyakumari: The Land's End Of India

Another interesting journey, majestic hills and plains bordered by colourful sea-shores, coconut trees and paddy fields, elevated patches of red cliffs and undulating valleys- I departed for the southernmost tip of India- the last destination 'Kanyakumari' (or Cape Comorin). It was a cool Sunday morning when I reached at the confluence of the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and Arabian Sea. The natural environment was peaceful and really stunning. I hired a guide from the bus stand only and asked him to first take me to a restaurant. While I was having my breakfast, my guide, Tahir, acquainted me with some interesting information about the city's history, various dynasties like the Cholas, Cheras, Pandyas & the Nayaks, attractions, and lifestyle.

We started off with the Gandhi Memorial. The National monument resembles an Orissa temple. Tahir also took me to the Kumari Amman Temple. He told me that it was the place where Devi Kanya- the Virgin Goddess and the incarnation of Goddess Parvati- did penance to marry Lord Siva. It is perhaps the most revered Hindu site in the region. Tahir insisted me to visit the Nagaraja Temple that resembles Chinese architecture of Budha Viharas and is known for a number of idols and images. But I refused as I was left with a little time in Kanyakumari. We together had a few local sea-food items in lunch at a small dhaba and continued our excursion.

I wished to see a few historical places, and Tahir took me to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial, the world famous site because of a huge statue of Swami Vivekananda, the great Indian philosopher and social reformist, who is said to have meditated here. The statue is situated about 500 metres in the sea which is easily accessible by boat. An isolated place Dhyana Mandapam is also built here for one to meditate. Apart from that, the 18th century Vattakotta Fort is also a wonderful monument, showcasing the best of Dutch architecture.

I realized that Kanyakumari is a renowned pilgrimage and a romantic destination as well. Couples can be seen enjoying the marvellous sight of Sunrise & Sunset and fishing at the multi-coloured sea shore. I truly liked this short visit to the city of culture, history, arts and economy. I bid good bye to Tahir and got into a bus heading towards Alleppey. On my way to Alleppey, I also had glimpse of the picturesque village of Thottapally, located in the south of the Alleppey district. The lively fishing harbour, serene backwaters and holy shrines together make it a paradise for nature lovers. It was getting dark and I could see the houseboats twinkling in the backwaters. I was very much excited to experience the life on the waters in this green paradise.

Trivandrum: The City With Rich History, Logic And Simple Gratitude

After relaxing on Kovalam Beach, I moved towards Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram)- the capital city of Kerala. My grandfather used to tell me that Trivandrum is a city that showcases the most vibrant and lively culture of Kerala. Fortunately, my visit synchronized with the 'Flavour Food Festival'. I was welcomed by the aroma of typical south Indian and other various delicacies. A number of hotels, restaurants and food chain outlets from across Kerala participate every year in this week long international festival. I booked a room in Sahyadri Ayurvedic Centre and rushed towards the Kanakakunnu Palace grounds to enjoy the festival. It was the first time, I guess, I was witnessing countless food items at a single place. I had enough of my favourite Chinese snacks, sea-food, south Indian specialties and a few north Indian dishes.

Being located on the south west coast of India, the city offers wonderful beach destinations like Varkala Beach, Shanghumugham Beach etc. for absolute relaxation. I started off with Padmanabhaswamy Temple, at the heart of the city. The temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is located inside the East Fort. I would call it a perfect blend of the typical Keralan and the Dravidian styles of art. The innumerable stone carvings, ancient inscriptions and colourful murals (wall paintings) were simply out of the world. I also visited the Methan Mani clock atop the Old Fort Palace, quite close to the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, which is operated by a complex system of pulleys. Being very fond of antiques, I also visited the beautiful Napier Museum. This 19th century Indo-Saracenic museum showcases a wide array of archaeological and historic artifacts, plastic casts, bronze idols, ancient ornaments, a temple chariot and ivory carvings. For me, it was the best attraction of the city. On observing my keen interest in antiques, a guard at the Napier Museum suggested me to visit the Sree Chithra Art Gallery as well.

The gallery is quite famous for its paintings and is located at a close proximity to the museum. I was literally overwhelmed by seeing the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma, Svetlova and Nicholas Roerich and exquisite works from the Rajput, Mughal and Tanjore schools of art in India. The gallery showcases a rarest collection of paintings from China, Japan, Tibet and Bali.

It was a hot afternoon. I enjoyed a diet coke at a small cold drink stall near the museum. While asking about the other main attractions of the city from the stall owner, he suggested me to visit the Science and Technology Museum Complex (popular for items related to science, technology and electronics) and the SMSM Handicraft Emporium behind the Secretariat on YMCA road. I also bought a few hand-knitted and exquisitely designed coir handicrafts from the SMSM Handicrafts Emporium. The emporium was full of wonderful objects including table and floor mats, bell-metal vessels, table lamps, jewel boxes etc. The best thing I realized about Trivandrum was that despite of growing at a fast pace as a modern and hi-tech city, it has retained its heritage, culture and customs.

My last halt in the evening was the Shanghumugham Beach, the best place to catch the play of light and shade. While returning to the Sahyadri Ayurvedic Centre, I picked up a few delicate and small artifacts from the market. I also enjoyed the Sirodhara therapy of Ayurveda in my hotel. The masseurs first laid me down and poured the medicated oil over the forehead slowly. They told me it was a natural and effective process for relaxation. People suffering from mental disorders, psychological imbalances, stress, tension, depression and other negative states of the psyche are also provided with the same treatment but with different medicated oil in different ailments. The treatment was highly refreshing. I was ready to move to my next destination, where I could enjoy the best of traditional Kalarippayattu martial art and Kathakali dance performances.

Leisure Holiday On Kovalam Beach: Unlimited Fun And Entertainment

It was a pleasant morning when I arrived Kovalam- 'the grove of coconut trees'. I had read a lot about Kovalam, its unique culture, arts and the best of Ayurveda. This isolated place, being located at a close proximity to Trivandrum (Kerala's capital; 16 km), draws thousands of tourists in the charm of serene beaches and leisure holidays. I got an accommodation unit in beach facing Surya Samudra Beach Garden Resort. The best part with Kovalam is that you do not need to hire a taxi or auto to visit the major attractions. This small town can easily be explored on foot. Besides, Kovalam is a city which can be visited in any month of the year. It enjoys a pleasant tropical climate.

As I walked towards the beach, I saw people enjoying swimming, kayaking, surfing and skiing. People looking for relaxation were enjoying sun bathing and massages. I visited a few renowned Ayurvedic rejuvenation and yoga-meditation centers as well, but found them costly. Kids were playing on the sea waves with their surfboards and boogie boards under the guidance of experts and lifeguards. The beach has a history of quiet a few drowning cases. Therefore, one can find instructions in various languages pointing out specifically that only the area marked by green flag is safe for tourists. While having some snacks on the beach, I observed a few shops of handicrafts and spices. There are a number of shopping places lined across the beach, which are quite popular for rose wood and teak wood statues. The Samudra Beach, Kovalam Beaches, Hawa Beach and the Light House Beach collectively form a major attraction in Kovalam.


I moved on to explore the cultural aspects, art forms and historic monuments of the city. I first bought a city guide, worth Rs. 10, from a roadside shop and started with Padmanabhaswamy Temple, believed to be one of the 108 Divya Sthalas of Lord Vishnu. In context of architectural beauty, I would also appreciate the East Fort Ganapathy Temple, situated at Pazhavangady, near East Fort. I also offered coconuts to Lord Ganapathy. If I could spend some extra time in Kovalam, I would have certainly visited the Pazhavangadi Bhagavathy Temple and Attukal Hanuman Temple along with a few mosques and churches. I got into a nearby restaurant and had my favourite fish curry and fish fry in lunch.

As I returned to the hotel, I was invited for a special cultural programme in the evening, which was organized for all the guests. Several dancers and artists performed the traditional Kerala art forms like Kathakali and the ethnic martial art 'Kalarippayattu'. These performance raised my spirits. Despite of being a small town, Kovalam was full of vibrant colours, lively art forms and joy.

A Unique Blend Of Tradition And Natural Beauty Of South India

On my last day in the state of Tamil Nadu, I planned for a short visit to Madurai (the Lotus City of India). I moved along the river Vaigai and reached the Temple Town 'Madurai'. I searched for a economy class lodge and had a cup of coffee there. I booked a room to keep my luggage safely and moved on to explore the city. The influence of the Pandya dynasty can be observed on the structural beauty of the city even today. I was amazed to see temples on every cross road of the city.

My first halt was the legendary Meenakshi Temple, one of the largest and most beautiful temple complexes in India. Dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi, the temple is believed to be older than the Madurai city. I also came to know that the temple serves as the centre of attraction on all the festive occasions of the city. Some local people told me that Sivagana Palace (40 km) is a nice attraction near Madurai, but I could not visit that because of shortage of time. However, a priest at the temple told me that the Sivaganga Palace is an excellent example of the Rajputana art. It also houses the temple of Sri Raja Rajeshwari (the family deity of the royal family) and Nadai Kinaru (a miniature swimming pool meant for the womenfolk of the royal family).

While returning to the lodge, I made short visits to Koodal Azhaar Temple (one of the ancient temples of Madurai, dedicated to Lord Vishnu) and Thirumalai Nayak Mahal (a 1523 structure, famous for a light and sound show for the tourist to know about the Nayak dynasty). Although Madurai is a renowned textile centre and is known for hand-woven silks and cottons, bell-metal lamps, bronze images, wood and stone carvings also, but I could not find something interesting and unique to buy.

While planning for some extensive excursions around the city, I decided to visit Periyar. As I stepped in 'God's Own Country'- the state of Kerala, I was welcomed by soothing & dense greens, cascading waterfalls, enchanting backwaters, exotic wildlife and the best of natural beauty. Periyar (170 km from Madurai) was my first destination in Kerala. I was actually overwhelmed by seeing the nature in its purest form. It was quite dark, therefore I decided not to wander in the deep forests. I booked a room in Hotel Lake Palace, which was situated at a close proximity to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. The hotel assured me to provide proper facilities for Jeep Safari and assistance for exploring the dense greens.

I woke up the next morning amidst lush green trees, chirping birds, velvety hills and stunningly beautiful landscapes. It was simply a heaven. This was perhaps the most beautiful destination I had ever been to. My guide, Dara, told me that the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary spreads across 777 sq. km, with hundreds of species of flora and fauna. It was declared a Tiger Reserve in 1978. I spotted a few elephants, sambars, gaurs and wild pigs wandering down the lake side and captured them in my camera. Unfortunately, I could not find any tigers there. The actual beauty of the sanctuary lies in the Periyar Lake, which is considered rich in bio-diversity. It also serves as a home to various amphibians and migratory birds.

The sanctuary closes at 6 pm. While coming out of the sanctuary, I could smell the aroma of spices in the air. It was not dark at 6 pm and I could easily see the sprawling tea, coffee, pepper and cardamom plantations over the hills. As I reached the hotel, I was offered a book on Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, which contained a detailed study on all the 62 species of mammals, 320 species of birds, 45 kinds of reptiles, 7 kinds of amphibians, 38 species of fish and about 350 species of plants found here. Periyar was a wonderland. I would like to spend a few more days there on my next trip.

Tanjore: Feasting With True Chola Culture

As I headed from Mahabalipuram to Tanjore, I observed the entire city busy in celebrating the birthday of King Raja Cholan. Tanjore or Thanjavur, the erstwhile capital of the Chola dynasty, welcomed me with full warmth. After a long journey of about 300 km in a Deluxe Coach of Tamil Nadu Transport Corporation, I enjoyed my favourite Masala Dosa with a chilled Coke at the restaurant Marutham at Hotel Oriental Towers. A waiter told me that Hotel Oriental Towers also offers high-end luxurious accommodation at a reasonable price. Fortunately, I got a cozy room on the 11^th storey of the hotel from where I could have splendid views of the colourful Tanjore city.

I started off with my 'hunt' in the evening. I asked an autowala to take me to the major attractions of the city. He charged me Rs. 300 for 3 hours and in the meanwhile he shared very interesting facts about the city with me. He told me that the city was named after a demon king 'Tanjan' who was assassinated by Sri Anandavalli Amman, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The guy told me that the city is home to over 75 temples. He took me to places like Airavatheeswara Temple and Brihadeswara Temple, which are the most prominent religious sites and are declared as world heritage monuments by the UNESCO. The temples, designed during the Chola kingdom, were amazing architectures.

Anna, the autowala, was a wonderful guide. He insisted me to visit the Tanjore Palace as well. This superb structure was a unique blend of the Chola, Nayakas and the Maratha architectural patterns. Anna told me that the palace houses a library, an art gallery and an interesting museum. I was surprised to see the display of items from the past rulers and the rarest collection of artifacts of the 8^th and 9^th century, belonging to the Chola dynasty. The library has an amazing collection of manuscripts written on palm leaves and paper. There are over 44,000 palm leaf and paper manuscripts in Indian and European languages inside the Saraswathi Mahal library. After a short but interesting historic journey, Anna dropped me to my hotel. I asked Anna if he could show me the other attractions of the city the next day. He smiled and said that he would charge Rs. 500 for that.

The very next morning, I had my breakfast in my room only. Anna was waiting for me outside the hotel since 8:30 am and I did not want to make him wait for a long time. Therefore I had a quick shower, put some snacks in my bag and got down of the hotel at 9 am. He first took me to Kodaikkarai or Point Calimere. It is a famous bird sanctuary, located about 90 km from Tanjore. We spent about two hours there and spotted several migratory waterfowls such as Flamingoes. While returning from the Point Calimere, Anna offered me glimpses of Swamimalai (abode of Lord Subramanya), Darasuram temple (dedicated to Lord Shiva), Thirubuvnam temple (dedicated to Lord Shiva), Naageswaran temple etc. Being more inclined towards historic monuments, I insisted Anna to take me to some fort or palace. He took me to 'Manora', the largest and tallest of the monuments built by the Tanjore Marathas. This eight-storey hexagonal fortress was constructed by Sarfoji II in 1815 in the honour of Britain's victory over Napoleon Bonaparte at Waterloo.

We had our lunch at a roadside dhaba. We were offered a variety in rice preparations. Anna tole me that the city is nurtured by the Kaveri (Cauvery) river and there are a number of paddy fields in Tanjore. Being a leading player in rice cultivation, Tanjore is called the 'Rice Bowl of South India'. While returning to the hotel, I asked Anna to drive via market area. As Tanjore is a center for art and culture, its antiques, exquisite handicrafts, handloom silk sarees and the unique Tanjore paintings (known for their elegance, rich colors, and images of Hindu deities) are in great demand all over the world. Tanjore artisans are expert in making plates (inlaid with brass and silver), musical instruments (veena, tambura and mridangam), paper mache dolls, miniatures of temples and bell metal products.

After reaching my hotel, I was invited to see a folk art performance in the main hall. I enjoyed various dance performances on Carnatic music while having dinner. These two days were simply outstanding and eventful.