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July 16, 2009

Exploring the Handicrafts and Fine Arts in Agra

Handicrafts of Agra
Rows of roadside stalls, glittering with cheap and sparkly clothing, marble items, various fine handicrafts, good quality leather shoes & chappals and arrays of the other hot selling items – that is what I saw in my dreams last night. The real deal in Agra bazaars is still the tiny crammed shops selling the latest styles.
I asked an autowala to take me to the major market areas of the city. He told me that during the Mughal reign, several sculptors, painters, artisans, jewelers, weavers, embroiderers, carpet makers, musicians and metal workers came here to offer their talents to the royal families. The Empress Noor Jahan also had a keen interest in embroidery and textiles. Therefore she employed a large number of women seamstresses to work on the grand robes of the Emperor and his courtiers.

All these arts are continued till date in Agra
Fine Arts In Agra
by their descendants. We first visited the Sadar Bazar. The shops there were loaded with a huge variety in marble items, leather items (shoes, bags, belts and more), rugs and carpets, and brassware (including hookah bases). I found a few items quite costly but good quality leather items were available at reasonable prices. Next we headed for the Kinari Bazar, where I enjoyed authentic Mughlai cuisine at a restaurant. I also bought sweets like 'Petha' & 'Gazak' and a snack called 'Dalmoth' for my brothers.
There are a few handicraft emporiums as well that offer a variety of sandalwood and rosewood items. I also visited the U.P. State Emporium called 'Gangotri' at the Taj Mahal Complex, and the Shilpagram crafts village. Both the places offer a choice of handicrafts under one roof at reasonable prices. While returning to my hotel, I also brought a small but beautiful marble replica of the Taj. One thing that marks an authentic street shopping experience in Agra, is the deliciousness of the bargain.

July 01, 2009

Agra Tour: Experience The Rich Heritage

Set alongside the breathtaking Yamuna River, the historical town of Agra gives you a chance to reconnect with the glorious past of the Mughals and experience the architectural magnificence. I had already visited the wonder monument Taj Mahal last day. Therefore, I planned to devote one entire day to explore all other prominent attractions in the city and the nearby regions. After a heavy breakfast, I hired a guide and headed towards the renowned Agra Fort.

We entered the fort through the Amar Singh Gate, which lies to the South and is defended by a square bastion flanked by round towers. Dara, my guide, told me that the fort had originally four gates, two of which were later walled up. Delhi gate in the west is fortified by massive octagonal towers and faces the bazaar and leads to the Jama Masjid in the city. Initiated by Emperor Akbar in 1565, the fort was completed by Shah Jahan. This crescent shaped monument is flattened on the east with a long wall facing the river Yamuna. The most fascinating features of the Agra Fort are Jahangir Mahal (built by Akbar as women's quarters), Jodha Bai's Palace (offering marvellous views of the Taj) and Anguri Bagh (85 m square geometric gardens lying to the left of the fort).

I also visited the tomb of the Itmad-ud-Daula. This impressive structure was laid by the empress Noor Jahan as a memorial to her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg. As written in the history text books, the structure is actually, ornamented with pietra dura inlay and lattice work marble screens. This white marble tomb also houses the cenotaph of Noor Jahan's mother Asmat Begum. Refereed to as 'the Baby Taj', this stunning tomb rests in a walled garden with a view of the river Yamuna. Dara told me that Mirza Ghiyas himself laid out the char bagh style of architecture six years before his death that has been used in the construction of the tomb.

At a nice restaurant, we enjoyed the best of Tandoori and Mughlai cuisine. Then we moved towards Sikandra – the last resting place of the Mughal emperor Akbar. Lying 13 km from the city, this pyramidal tomb was completed by Akbar's son Jahangir in 1613. Dara guided me to the beautiful garden, gateway and the five storeyed mausoleum, which are still maintained in a superb manner. I also paid a short visit to the 'Chini ka Rauza' – the mausoleum of Mulla Shukrullah Shirazi, the Prime Minister of Shahjahan.

Fatehpur Sikri
The last halt of my excursion trip was Fatehpur Sikri – the political capital of India's Mughal Empire under Akbar's reign. An inscription there says that the place flourished at its best from 1571 to 1585. Dara told me that the region witnessed innovations in land revenue, coinage, military organization and provincial administration. The major attractions of this World Heritage Site are the Buland Darwaza, Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) etc. After enjoying the fulfilling experience of visiting these wonderful monuments, I was all set to go on a shopping spree the next day !!

June 25, 2009

Taj Mahal: Beauty Beyond The Scope Of Words


TajMahal - Symbol of Love
I had already known how the Taj Mahal was built as the preeminent expression of a man's love for a lady. Known as one of the seven wonders of the world, this mausoleum was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in commemoration of his wife Mumtaz. I was craving for that lifetime experience. I wanted to see how beautiful could be the combination of the Persian, Indian, and Islamic architectural styles. Finally, I applied for a leave in my office and headed towards the city of Agra in Uttar Pradesh.

It was 12 in the noon when I arrived there, and I did not even bothered to have my lunch. Carrying a small bag with a few packets of chips and biscuits, I hired a rickshaw to the Taj Mahal. The city seems to be quite cheaper in comparison to Delhi or Jaipur or some other tourist destination. In another few minutes, I was at the Taj. It was a dream come true. This jewel of Muslim art is one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, the Taj Mahal is actually an integrated complex of structures. The first thing which fascinated me was the square plinth on which stands the large, white marble structure consisting of a symmetrical building with an iwan (an arch-shaped doorway) topped by a large dome and finial. People were clicking some photographs at the base structure, which is a multi-chambered cube with chamfered corners, forming an octagon that is about 55 meters on each of the four long sides. The marble dome towering 35 meters and surmounting the tomb is another spectacular feature.

I got along with a French group headed by a guide. The guide told us that the main finial was originally made of gold but was replaced by a copy made of gilded bronze In the early 19th century. The 40 meters tall minarets display the designer's penchant for symmetry. The best part of the Taj was calligraphy, paintings, stuccoes, stone inlays and carvings. The charbagh garden (with four river stream flowing in the centre) is completely inspired by Persian gardens.

Lastly, I visited the inner part of the Taj. I saw 99 names of the God as calligraphic inscriptions on the sides of the actual tomb of Mumtaz Mahal. The tomb of Shah Jahan also has a calligraphic inscription regarding the journey of his life. The guide told us that the construction began in 1632 and was completed around 1653, which employed about twenty thousand artisans and craftsmen. Over 1,000 elephants were used to transport building materials from various places – like the translucent white marble from Rajasthan, the jasper from Punjab, jade and crystal from Chinam, turquoise from Tibet, Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, sapphire from Sri Lanka and the carnelian from Arabia. In all, 28 types of precious and semi-precious stones were inlaid into the white marble.

Standing majestically on the banks of River Yamuna, this epitome of love is simply a monument of immeasurable beauty.

June 18, 2009

Ranthambore National Park: The Land Of Tigers

“A country is known by the way it treats its animals.” - This statement by
Ranthambore National Park
Pt. Jawahar Lal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, has always been a lesson to me. It was my last day in Jaipur, and I was seeking to explore some alluring site. Being a great fan of Ramesh Bedi, a veteran wild-life writer and photographer, finally decided to take an excursion tour to Ranthambore Wildlife Sanctuary. It was an awesome deal where I could capture the tigers and other fauna in my camera. To enjoy the tour into this sanctuary, I hired a jeep that took me in the deep forests without any fear.

I was in the eastern part of Rajasthan at a distance of 130 km from Jaipur. The very first fascinating factor was the natural beauty of the surrounding Aravali and Vindhya mountain ranges. My driver-cum-guide told me that Ranthambore National Park used to be the hunting ground of Maharajas of Jaipur. It was first declared a game sanctuary in 1955 and later became a National Park in 1980, and came under the Tiger Project. The Park is actually an eye treat for the lovers of wild-life. Various natural rivers and man-made lakes flowing through the National Park add some extra charm to it.

After a drive of hardly two kilometers, I spotted langurs, caracals, hyena, jungle cats, marsh crocodiles, jackal, bear, sambar, chital, nilagai, gazelle, mongoose, wild boar and a few other animals. But I was still searching for the roaring tigers and speedy leopards. The driver then took me to the Padam Talab, Raj Bagh Talab and Milak Talab. While on the way to these lakes, he told me that we could easily spot tigers there. And surprisingly, withing next 15 minutes, I was clicking the best tigers of India, in their relaxing moments. Hunting is strictly prohibited in the grounds of this National Park.

Ranthambore National Park
has some areas open for the tourists to travel around and explore the flora and fauna of the park. There was a small restaurant, where I enjoyed a cup of coffee with some light snacks. The chaiwala told me that the Park has the largest and most diverse collection of wildlife species in India, including 300 trees, 50 aquatic plants, over 300 species of birds, 12 reptiles and 30 species of mammals. Ranthambore Park is also classified as a heritage site because of some of the ruins of old monuments. As I was running out of time, I paid short visits to the Jogi Mahal (has the second largest Banyan tree in India), Ranthambore Fort (probably the oldest existing fort in Rajasthan) and the Padam Talao. The Cenotaphs and Old Citadels date back to thousand years. The trip was very exciting and I returned back to my hotel with some remarkable moments in my camera.

June 04, 2009

Elephant Festival In Jaipur: An Incomparable Entertainment

Elephant Festival Jaipur
Being addicted to celebrations, I have been fascinated by the royal festivities, pageants and beautiful processions. And while holidaying in Jaipur, the elephants definitely become an exciting element of the celebrations. Elephants have always been a symbol of strength and wealth to me, and when I came to know that Jaipur devotes one complete day for 'Elephant Festival', I could not resist myself for visiting the Chaugan ground. Moreover, I convinced all my friends as well to accompany me as well. Chaugan ground was the place which was going to host the festival the very next day.


The Elephant Festival is held in the month of March, on the eve of Holi - the festival of colors. People celebrate Holi by throwing water balloons, coloured water and Abir/Gulal (colored powder) on each other. People in Rajasthan give a warm welcome to the spring with Elephant Festival. The entire Chaugan ground was alive with dancers, musicians, elephants and onlookers from around the world. As the festival started, the audience was greeted with an impressive procession of the majestic elephants lovingly painted and tastefully attired with glittering ornaments and embroidered velvets. These processions, including elephants, camels and horses, cover almost all the major streets of Jaipur. The hard work of mahouts (elephant keepers) for decorating the elephants, painting their trunks, foreheads and feet with floral motifs, and adorning them from tusk to tail with interesting trinkets was clearly depicted there. The caparisoned elephants, accompanied by lancers on horses, chariots, camels, cannons and palanquins, form the most important attraction of the festival.

Jaipur Festival
During the festival, the elephants greeted the visitors, offered garlands to the guests and walked past the ramp before a jury of experts. The judges selected the best amongst them for the title of 'Best Decorated Elephant'. Next programme was the catwalk by the female elephants before an enthralled audience. These female elephants wear wear anklets, which make music as they walk. In the olden times, special hunting programs on elephant back and elephant fights were organized to entertain the royal guests. The festival, obviously, had nothing to do with hunting programmes, but what we enjoyed most were the elephant races, elephant-polo matches and tug of war between elephants and men. The game of polo was the highlight of the festival. The teams, dressed in saffron and red turbans, were trying to score goals with long sticks and a plastic ball. It was superb. I wish I could have volunteered to join in and be a part of the game, but being an amateur I did not even think about it.

An outstanding display of fireworks brought the festival to a colorful and memorable end. We also enjoyed traditional music and dance at the floor. The best among them was the 'Ghair', in which the women swirl in unison to rhythmic beats. The spectacular event was truly the day of the pachyderm.

May 28, 2009

Shopping In Jaipur: The Most Colourful Aspect


Shopping in Jaipur
Honestly speaking, whatever be the place, I have never been a shopaholic. Shopping for me is actually wastage of time. Yes, I am interested in artifacts and handicrafts at times. But spending a complete day just to explore the market areas !! Too boring for me. But I was forced to give a second thought when Pooja, my friend, started singing praises about the wonderful handicrafts of Jaipur. While listening to Pooja, the arts and crafts of Jaipur became as irresistible as its monuments. Dara told us that the city has abundant markets, which sell excellent pieces of arts and crafts famous for their delicate traditional touches.

Pooja has a philosophy that shopping is all about judging the artistic worth of an item. On the request of Pooja and Monika, we first headed for the Rajasthan government emporium- 'Rajasthali'. The place is actually worth a visit. The best part there was the hand-woven saris and tie and dye clothing (also known as Bandhini). The emporium showcases jewellery, gems, semi precious stones, Kundan and Minakari work that are quite popular in the city. Somebody told us that the major jewellery stores are located in the Jauhari Bazaar, Jadiyon-ka-Rasta, Gopalji-ka-Rasta and Haldiyon-ka-Rasta. But instead of buying gold and silver jewellery, we preferred buying Lakh Jewellery, and therefore we moved for Maniharon Ka Rasta. I too bought a few items for my younger sister and my grandma.

We stopped near Hawa Mahal for lunch, where all of us relished the best of Rajasthani cuisine. The entire region of Hawa Mahal comprises of several shops that sell antiques like blue potteries, carpets, brass ware, leather footwear (especially embroidered Jutis), carpets, Kota doria saris, Sanganeri prints and hand block printed textiles. The items were a bit costly there. So we decided to go to the Nehru Bazar and Bapu Bazar to explore some more varieties and reasonable prices in those articles.

The workshops of tie-dye and block printing textiles and wooden crafts are also located at Sanganer and their chief stores are in Jahauri Bazaar, Badi Chaupar, Chaura Rasta and Tripolia Bazar. But due to shortage of time we could not visit these places. Our last shopping destination was the famous M I Road (Mirza Ismail Road). The shops there were loaded with good quality woolen carpets, hand block printed textiles, traditional miniature paintings, cotton rugs and embroidered Jutis. We consider ourselves very lucky that we planned for shopping on Saturday, otherwise most of the shopping places in Jaipur Rajasthan are closed on Sundays. While returning to the hotel, I was realizing that if I would not have joined everyone for shopping, I would have missed the most colourful and vibrant aspect of Jaipur.

May 21, 2009

Jaipur Monuments: Retaining The Age Old Rajputana Glory


Amber Fort, Jaipur-Rajasthan
A feeling of bravery and victory engulfs us as we talk about the Rajputs. The majestic forts and palaces of the Rajput Kings, and the stories of their wars have always fascinated me. After the first rain of the monsoon, the weather became quite pleasant and my six friends- Pooja, Monika, Shakeel, Tahir, Abhishek and Dara- asked me to visit Jaipur. Lucky is how I felt when all of a sudden I got an opportunity to visit my wonderland. We packed our bags and boarded the Ajmer Shatabdi train. In another four hours, we were in Jaipur- 'the cultural hub of Rajasthan'. After a heavy breakfast, we hired a guide and moved out to explore the city.

The stunning Amber Fort, built in white marble and red sandstone, was out first destination. Dara, being familiar to the place, told us that the construction of the Fort was started by Raja Man Singh I in 1592, but it was completed during the reign of Raja Jai Singh I. The crystal mirror image of the Fort in the Maotha Lake at its foreground, was the best part. Usually pronounced as Amer Fort, the structure has out of the world interiors that provide a soothing and warm ambiance. Dara then took us to the beautiful City Palace. Tahir had a dream to own a palace since his childhood, and he went crazy to see the grand structure of the City Palace. Built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, the palace covers a huge area that comprises of several gardens, courtyards and buildings. We paid short visits to the beautiful Chandra Mahal, Badal Mahal, Mubarak Mahal, Mukut Mahal, Maharani's Palace and Shri Govind Dev Temple. The Maharani's Palace, made for royal queens, has now been converted into a museum, showcasing weapons dated back to 15th century. Besides, Diwan-I-Khas (a hall for private audience) and Diwan-I-Aam (a hall for public audience) are also open to the tourists.

We stopped for a quick bite at a restaurant, where Dara told us that the Jaigarh Fort and Nahargarh Fort are the antique forts quite close to Jaipur, which provide the spectacular views of the city. Our next destination was Jantar Mantar, the largest stone observatory of India built in 1724. Hats off to Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh who was so passionate for astronomy and numerology. There are several striking instruments like the Brihat Samrat yantra Sundial, which are purely made of stones or bricks, and were used to calculate the local and meridian pass time, the sun's declination, altitude, the declination of stars, planets and to determine eclipses.

Our last halt was the spell binding Hawa Mahal, the most easily recalled landmarks of Jaipur, built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799. This five storey building was built for the ladies of the royal household to watch everyday life in the market streets and processions in the city. Another stunning examples of Rajput architecture and artistry are the delicately honeycombed 953 sandstone windows (Jharokhas) of the Hawa Mahal. The day was quite tiring, but our fatigue vanished like a dream after reaching the ethnic village resort- 'Choki Dhani'. Located 18 km from the heart of the city, this place offers thatched cottages with all the modern facilities for its guests. We enjoyed the traditional Rahasthani dinner at the multi cuisine restaurant 'Bindola'. It was truly a remarkable trip to the monuments of Jaipur but I was still left with a lot to explore.